By Matias Gimenez
•
29 Oct, 2024
When it comes to empanadas, few variations are as revered as the salteñas from Salta, Argentina. These exquisite pastries are celebrated for their rich flavors and authentic preparation, setting them apart from the adaptations that have emerged, particularly in Bolivia. While both versions share a common heritage, they diverge significantly in taste and technique, especially when it comes to the use of gelatin in the Bolivian interpretation. The Essence of Authentic Salteñas Originating from the northwestern province of Salta, the authentic salteña is a culinary masterpiece. Filled with hand-cut beef, potatoes, eggs, onions, and a vibrant blend of local spices, these empanadas are a labor of love. The dough is crafted to achieve the perfect balance of flakiness and lightness, whether fried or baked. The hallmark of a true salteña lies in the meticulous preparation of its filling. When cooked, the natural juices from the hand-cut beef meld seamlessly with the other ingredients, creating a luscious filling that is both savory and satisfying, without the need for any additives. The Bolivian Adaptation: A Different Take In Bolivia, the salteña has evolved into a beloved variation that, while delicious in its own right, diverges from the original. Bolivian salteñas often feature a slightly sweeter dough and a filling that can include chicken or pork. However, what truly sets them apart is the addition of gelatin—a technique used to hold the juices together. This results in a filling that is noticeably thicker and more gelatinous, altering the experience of biting into a salteña. While this innovation may appeal to some, purists argue that it compromises the authenticity and integrity of the original recipe. The Flavor Showdown Authentic Salteñas: Hailing from the northwest province of Salta, these pastries are a true culinary treasure. In Salta, there’s no need for the term "salteña" to describe these empanadas; they are simply part of the local identity. Crafted with hand-cut beef, fresh potatoes, and a vibrant blend of spices, the flaky dough encases a rich, savory filling that embodies the essence of its origins. Bolivian Salteñas: While inspired by their Salteña counterparts, these variations introduce a unique twist. Often featuring a sweeter dough and a diverse range of fillings like chicken or pork, the use of gelatin creates a thicker, more cohesive texture. This innovation reflects Bolivia’s culinary creativity, offering a distinct experience that sets them apart from the original. Conclusion: A Culinary Legacy In the debate of salteñas vs. “real” salteñas, it’s clear that both versions have their merits, yet they represent two distinct culinary philosophies. The authentic salteña from Salta captures the essence of its origins, relying on the purity of its ingredients, while the Bolivian adaptation showcases a different approach, with innovations that cater to local tastes. As we savor each version, we celebrate not only the flavors but also the rich cultural exchanges that have shaped these iconic pastries. Whether you prefer the traditional salteña or its Bolivian counterpart, both embody the joy of culinary exploration and the love of good food. Salteñas from Salta For The Filling • 1 kilo of diced meat (top round or sirloin) ¼ inch • 700 g onion • 300 g red bell pepper (optional) • 250 g green onion • 400 g diced russet potatoes ¼ inch • 200 g beef tallow • 6 eggs • Salt to taste • 1 TBL of paprika • 1TBL of cumin • Directions 1. Dice the onions and peppers of the same size. 2. Cut the meat into small cubes and do the same with the potatoes, blanch for a few minutes in boiling water (they should not be cooked completely). 3. Place the fat in a pot and brown the peppers and onions until translucent. 4. Add salt, paprika and cumin. Let the spices cook for a minute and then add the meat mixing all ingredients together, cook for 10 minutes. 5. Remove from heat minutes before finishing cooking, season and let cool. 6. Add the potatoes, chopped green onion and chopped hard-boiled eggs just before assembling the empanadas. For the Dough: Ingredients yield 36 disks. 260 grams of water 1 Tablespoon of salt 80 grams of beef tallow 500 grams of all-purpose flour 1. Boil the water together with salt and beef fat. When the fat has melted, remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl and let it warm. 2. Place the flour and stir until the dough begins to form. 3. Place on the counter and knead until a homogeneous dough is formed. If necessary, add flour to achieve the desired consistency. 4. Rest for 30 minutes inside a plastic bag to prevent it from drying out. 5. To stretch by hand, make balls of 25 grams or the size of a walnut. 6. Pass the ball through flour, crush maintaining the circular shape and with a rolling pin stretch. 7. Turning and turning quarters always on the same side, in this way the circular shape is generated and maintained. If necessary, sprinkle with more flour to prevent it from sticking and losing its shape. They should be very thin, approximately 1 mm thick, between 10 and 12 cm in diameter. 8. Step 8 9. Fill, form the “repulgue” and bake or fry. Bolivian Salteñas: For The Filling • 1 (.25 ounce) package unflavored gelatin • 3 potatoes, peeled • 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil • 1 onion, chopped • 1 ½ pounds ground beef • 1 (10 ounce) package frozen petite peas, thawed • 1 spring onion, sliced • ½ cup fresh parsley, chopped • 4 teaspoons white sugar • 2 teaspoons of paprika • ¼ teaspoon ground cumin • 1 ½ teaspoons salt • ¼ teaspoon black pepper • 3 tablespoons jalapeno sauce (Optional) • ½ cup cold water • 3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped • 1 (2.25 ounce) can sliced black olives, drained • 1 cup raisins, soaked in water and drained For the Dough: • 6 cups all-purpose flour • ¼ cup white sugar • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 cup butter, cubed • 1 ½ cups hot water • 2 eggs, beaten • 2 teaspoons of water • 1 tablespoon paprika Directions 1. Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/2 cup cold water in a heat-proof dish; set aside for 10 minutes. Microwave the rehydrated gelatin for 30 seconds or until melted (or melt it over a pot of simmering water). Transfer the melted gelatin to a small bowl and refrigerate until set. 2. Place the potatoes into a saucepan, cover with water, and bring them to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat, and simmer until the potatoes are cooked but still firm, about 10 minutes. Remove from water, allow it to cool, and shred into a bowl; set aside. 3. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Stir in the onion; cook and stir until the onion has softened and turned translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef, and cook until the meat is no longer pink, breaking it up into crumbles as it cooks, for about 10 minutes. Drain excess grease. Stir in the shredded potatoes, peas, spring onion, parsley, 4 teaspoons sugar, 2 teaspoons paprika, cumin, salt and black pepper, and 3 tablespoons jalapeno sauce (optional). Simmer until hot, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. 4. Preheat an oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Lightly grease a baking sheet, or line it with parchment paper. 5. Combine the flour, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cut in the butter with a knife or pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. (This can also be done in a food processor: pulse the butter and flour mixture until it looks like cornmeal. Turn mixture into a bowl and proceed.) Slowly add the hot water and knead until smooth, for about 3 minutes. Keep the dough covered with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel to keep it warm. Divide the dough into 16 pieces and roll them into balls. Keep the other balls of dough covered with a towel while you roll out each round. 6. On a lightly floured surface, roll each ball of dough into a 1/8-inch-thick circle. Whisk the beaten eggs and 2 teaspoons water in a small bowl. Lightly brush egg wash on the edges of the dough circle. Place about 2 tablespoons of the meat filling on one half of the dough round; top it with about 1/2 teaspoon of hard-boiled egg, 1/4 teaspoon of gelatin, a few sliced black olives, and some raisins. 7. Fold the dough over the filling. Seal and scallop the edges of the dough together. To scallop, start at one edge of the half circle: fold a small piece of dough (the size of your fingernail) over the seam and press gently. Fold another small piece of dough over the seam so that it overlaps the first piece; repeat until you have sealed the half circle. 8. Place the saltena on the prepared baking sheet and continue with the remaining dough and filling. Whisk the paprika into the remaining egg wash and brush the saltenas with the egg wash. Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown, for 15 to 20 minutes.